Empty vessels

The boots and the bottle are empty but our memories are full.

Another good photo

One taken by Kevin on the moors.

Oh no

Did we walk to Yorkshire or Scotland?

Bliss

Sore feet - after 192 miles we had to cool them down in the sea.

Last kiss?

We thought this was the last kissing gate but it turned out not to be. . .

Last Day

We set out at 6.45am on a perfect morning. The sun was shining and no one else was on the road as we climbed the 1-in-3 hill out of Grosmont. We missed breakfast in favour of an early start but the landlady had made us sandwiches and told us to help ourselves to anything else we wanted from the cafe which was part of the B and B. The first few miles dropped away as it was along the road but we slowed a little once we got back on the moor. We ate breakfast on a bench in Little Beck at 8.15 then went into the delightful, but lengthy, detour through the woods to see the impressive waterfall at Falling Force. The route then took us over more moorland and a wide bog, where Julia decided to 'go for it' and ran across - she still sank in and came out looking like she had not made it to the loo in time! We met Kev's parents, sister Carol and Ken in the pub for a pint and some chips then set out again. Carol joined us for this last stretch of about 4 miles round the headland and into Robin Hoods Bay. The day had stayed sunny so the views were magnificent. As we walked down through the village to dip our feet in the sea and deposit the stone which Kevin had carried from St Bees beach, we mingled with the holiday makers and other walkers with our spirits high and our feet sore! The tide was out so it was a long walk across the sand but the cool water on our toes was bliss. We drank our champagne and gave each other hugs. We all admitted it had been a hard trek but one we would not have missed for the world. We had fantastic weather all the way, met some lovely people (and some strange ones, like the chap who kept getting lost and was walking in ordinary shoes), had enjoyed each others company - but are glad we do not have to walk tomorrow!.

Boots

This is not a mistake - we just walked through a bog

Walk Day 10

A much easier day today - not too many hills and only 12.75 miles. Mind you we had a later start because breakfast did not arrive until 8am and we had to wait until after breakfast for a lift back up the hill 2 miles to the Lion Inn to resume our walk. The B and B was good, very obliging and food good but you have never seen such narrow beds in all your life! Julia sat on hers and fell off the other side! At Egton Bridge we went over a delightful set of large stepping stones over the river. I wish I Could recognise birds better because we have seen such a variety of birds. Today we saw a lot of birds which must be pheasants but their plumage was almost blue-black and their heads deep red. Kevin got a blister this morning from the seam of his thick socks and Julia got 2 - one on each foot. We finished today's walk at 2.30 but had to wait till 4pm for our bags to arrive. Our room is ok but we had to buy some fly spray to get rid of the house flies which were flying in circles round the room. Now off to the pub for supper.

Posture?

The walk getting to you Kev or the beans at breakfast?

Walk Day 9

Our B and B in Ingleby Arncliff was very nice and landlady very obliging. Set off at 7.50 knowing it was going to be a long hard day. The trek up through the forest was beautiful with carpets of blue bells. The sun was hot as we climbed up to the top of the escarpment and looked down over the flat valley floor over which we had walked yesterday. The fields of rape lighting up the landscape. Unfortunately we then had to cross 4 ridges so we have spent the day going up and down very steep hills. Exhausting work in full sun! Once we got onto the high moor the going was easier but Julia almost stepped on a grouse in the heather and I'm not sure who got the bigger fright. Even I jumped out of my skin at the noise of the bird added to Julia's squeal. The day ended with a 4 mile walk along a disused railway track which was nice to walk on and elevated above the surrounding moor. The colours on the moorland were vivid in places where the minerals were near the surface. The bilberries are coming into bright leaf. The Lion Inn was a very welcome sight as was Kev's parents who saved us the 2 mile off-route to our accommodation. The last of our long days now behind us.

More photos

Walk Day 8

Perhaps it wasn't such a good idea going for a curry last night! Landlady very obligingly served us breakfast at 6.30 and we were on our way by 7.30 (even allowing for several trips to the loo!). Richmond is a lovely town and the walk took us through Town Square and down past the river rapids, then up along a river walk for about a mile through trees where the ground was carpeted with wild garlic and the air was occasionally heady with its aroma. From this walk there were lovelly views back to Richmond town and castle. Well worth a return visit. We went past Catterick race course and over lots of high styles. Not too many kissing gates today so I wasn't feeling left out. If yesterday was a day of waterfalls, then today was one of flowers with bluebells, harebells, primroses and forget-me-nots, not to mention our walk through several fields of flowering yellow rape-seed. Kev managed to time it just perfectly for a pub stop at lunchtime but we only allowed him one pint. There was rain in front of us at several points but we only managed 3 spots and about 3 minutes of light drizzle. The rest of the day was hot and sunny with Julia walking in shorts and our coats packed in rucksacks. Kevin now looks like a lobster! I've also learned that while Julia teaches English, Kevin is fluent in sheep. Every time we have been in a field of sheep and lambs he has started bleeting and 'baa-ing' at them and they always answer - he even gets the lambs running towards him till they realise they have been conned. I was glad he did not try the same thing when we walked through fields of young frisky and inquisitive bullocks today. Today's walk was quite flat and supposed to be 23 miles. Julia did tell me I was likely to get a speeding ticket if I did not slow down when we went into the villages but my GPS - and our feet - suggested it was nearer 20 and we finished at just after 4pm - we even managed to break into a run as we crossed the busy dual carriageway of the A19 at the end of today's trek. Tomorrow is supposed to be 21 miles and very hot - as well as being quite hilly, so we are expecting a very hard day. On top of that our accommodation is another 2 mites off the route with no likelyhood of a bus or taxi. Still, once that is out of the way there will only be 2 days of easy (15 miles) walking left. Where has the holiday gone? So far - 8 days of dry and sunny weather - who would have believed it.

Day 7 walk

We wanted an early start today so had to miss breakfast which was at 8am. We had been walking an hour by then. The old abandoned tin mines were very interesting and the peat moors were alive with grouse and other birds but it still involved some hairy descents and climbes around the ravines. The walk along the Swale valley was very picturesque but we were never so pleased as when we saw the castle in Richmond come into view! Accommodation very good - even getting our washing done for us! No significant rainfall as yet since we started and forecast is for it to get hotter before we finish. Probably poor reception tomorrow night in Inglby Arncliffe.

Walk day 6

We had a later breakfast today as the plan was only 12 miles. Called into a walking shop to get Kevin some Sorbothane insoles in the hope they will ease the pain he is feeling because of his boots. The start of the day was a hard uphill slog to 9 Standards Rigg where we took shelter from the wind for a coffee break. Them we set off in half force winds across the peat moor. Despite lack of rain there were still boggy bits and Kevin sank in over his ankles. We stopped at Ravenseat farm for a delicious cream tea and arrived in Keld at 2.30. Kevin and Julia went for a drink at the pub over the road. Tomorrow is a long day so we are having a packed breakfast and lunch to allow up to set out early (breakfast was not till 8am). Hope to be on the road at 7am. No signal today or tonight in Keld. Maybe better in Richmond tomorrow.

Walk day 5

Accommodation in Shap was pretty basic and a bit noisy. Left there at 8.10 prepared for a 10 hour walk but made it in 8! Not bad for a 20 mile walk including a stop for tea and another to eat our packed lunch (huddled down behind a wall out of the wind). Scenery today was very different - no steep hills to climb but rather heather moorland and rolling hills. Kevin is still suffering with his feet due to inflexible boots. I am surprised how well my feet are holding up - no significant problems yet and no blisters, despite this being one of the hardest walks I have ever done. It makes the Cyprus Cape to Cape walk look like a stroll in the park! Tomorrow is an easier day with only 11 miles to cover. When we got to our B and B today there was a pot of tea and a plate of home-made scones waiting. Just the ticket!

Walk day 4

Today we walked from Patterdale to Shap. The route took us up a long incline to Angle Tarn at 600m and on to The knott overlooking Hayeswater at 800m. We went wrong once and climbed one extra hill but we let Kev off for that one! When we went over Kidsty Pike the gale-force wind came straight from the arctic and froze us. We found a little shelter for our lunch then hail stones started falling! However most of the day was again sunny and fantastic. We cannot believe we have had such good weather for 4 days in lakeland. The views have been fit for postcards, beautiful. Our descent today took us to the shores of Haweswater reservoir and along the full length of this long and beautiful lake, then into fields and riverside all the way to Shap where we are staying overnight. 16 miles today. We are all suffering but Kevin appears the worst due mainly to his boots which are hard and have no flex in them. Not sure if will be able to walk in them the whole way as he is in pain now. Tomorrow is a long slog to Kirby Stephen - 21 miles but it should be a lot flatter. Only 7 more days to do. We cover half the total distance in 6 days, then the second half in 5 days.

Walk day 3

Had a bad start today as I left my water pouch at the B and B. We set out at about 8.30 today and headed up Greenup Gill, over Grassmere common and down towards Grassmere then up again, passed Grisdale tarn at 725 metres then down to Patterdale. A long and very tiring day. Lots of ascent yet again. Not too many kissing gates so I didn't feel too left out. I suffered on the ascents but I think J and K felt it more on the downhill stretches. We are all aching and walking like old men! We will be fine by tomorrow but we start our last day in the lakes with a very long and steep assent up to Kidsty Pike at almost 800 metres. Then a bit of a switchback over the top, steep descent to Hawswater, the full length of the lake then across country to Shap. Lots of miles and hills tomorrow. Hope I can keep up.

Walk day 2

Tue 11 May. Mileage today was supposed to be 14.3. My GPS showed 13.9 but it was a very hard day. I could not let Kevin and Julia do all those peaks without me so I went up Red Pike with them. The ascent was long and hard but I made it. The sun shone, the wind was very cold at times but the views were magnificent. At one point we could see 4 lakes, numerous crags and fells, Scotland and the Irish sea at the same time. The drawback was the scramble up and down for about 8 miles - and some of the descents were vertical scree on narrow zig-zag paths dropping dizzy heights. It took us a lot longer than we anticipated and we were all exhausted at the end. kevin very kindly took my rucksack at on point as my knees were giving out and I was stumbling and had one fall but no harm done. He later trapped his ankle and had a slip which caused him some discomfort. Evening meal in the pub was rather poor but Kev said the beer was good. BandB is ok but no TV. Tea or coffee and not en-suite. So fairly basic for the price. Still the beds are clean! No network cover all day so I hope to send this tomorrow morning.

High Day

Tue 11 May is set to be a high day with See Pike. Chapel Crags, High Stile. high Crag. seat. Hay Stacks. Grey Knotts and Seatoller Fell. Hope I survive!

Walk Day 1

B and B in St Bees was fine except being kept waiting 45 mins for breakfast by a noisy group of Americans. We set off at 8.30 in a few spots of rain but within half an hour it was fine but cool and windy. Kevin and Julia said they are going to attach some bungie lines to me so I can pull them along - for some reason they think I walk fast. There were good views over the Irish Sea to the Isle of Man and to Scotland. The bluebells, gorse and thrift on the cliff edge were gorgeous. We had some of everything today - sea,cliffs, woodland, hills - the lot. It was slightly shorter than we expected as the path had been re-routed so we did 12.9 miles and got to the pub at 3pm. Now in The Stork Hotel ready for a shower, an early supper and early bed. Pleasantly tired but no blisters or obvious problems. Looking forward to tomorrow even though Kevin wants to do Haystacks and 3 high fells when I wha thinking it would be another easy day! No peace for the wicked!

St Bees

Met Julia and Kevin at Whitehaven station. Got a taxi to our BandB then walked down to the beach and hot the roles of our boots wet in the Irish Sea. Kevin picked up a pebble to throw into the North Sea when we get to Robin Hoods Bay. Went to the pub and had a meal - Kevin had the big Yorkshire pud with cumberland sausage and it was HUGE. Now off to bed for an early night and early start in the morning. Breakfast at 7.30.

Travel

My journey to Lancaster via Milton Keynes and Crew was uneventful. Julia and Kevin arrived in Manchester by air ok. Lovely morning here in Lancaster. Meeting J and K in St Bees this afternoon. I am now catching train to Windermere then using my new 0AP bus pass on local routes. Hope I get there before dark!

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Testing new blog settings for coast to coast trek.